We’re back from four days in London. I’d spent a week there back in 1979, but in imaginative terms, it’s like my second home—the city of Shakespeare and his kings; the city of Micawber and Moll Flanders and Clarissa Dalloway and the 101 Dalmatians.
Since Jonetta and Louis had never been to London, and I hadn’t been there since Johnny was still Rotten, we mostly stuck to the high tourist ground, starting with Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London, where we watched a spirited reenactment of Wat Tyler’s rebellion. We exhausted ourselves in the massive Tate Modern museum, and watched 30 minutes of “Burial at Thebes” from the groundling area in the new Globe Theatre. (This was an opera based on a play by Seamus Heaney based in turn on Antigone by Sophocles.)
We saw the Elgin Marbles (the exterior sculptures from the Parthenon which the Brits are holding on to for safekeeping—any century now the Greeks can have them back) and the Rosetta Stone in the British Museum. We visited Harrod’s. A lot of walking, a lot of standing and looking.
One of my favorite stops was the house of Samuel Johnson at number 3 Gough Square, a small 18th century enclave hidden away behind the modern facades of the financial district near Fleet Street. We arrived just as the house opened to the public on a smoky Monday morning, and had the place entirely to ourselves.
It was a rather small house, four floors with two rooms per floor. The first dictionary of the English language was written in the attic. Johnson was a man of inexhaustible intellectual energy who didn’t see why he couldn’t absorb and explain everything there was to know about history and ideas and literature. A large homely man prone to distracting facial tics, Johnson was a Tory who instinctively distrusted anything novel or extracurricular—including the political agitations of the American colonists. But he was also a gregarious man with many friends and a great wit.
We were able to emulate Johnson in spending two evenings in pleasant discourse while in London: one with Retini, an old friend of mine from New York who has lived in England for almost 30 years (and has the accent to prove it), the other with Ashley, a fellow Seattlite who has been living a hand-to-mouth student existence commuting from Brixton to Somerset House for the past year.
When I visited London in ’79 it was my first trip outside of North America. It seemed a distant, foreign place. Arriving in London from Copenhagen this year, it almost felt like coming home.
[The post title is from a Roger Miller song, circa 1967:
England swings like a pendulum do
Bobbies on bicycle two by two
Westminster Abbey the Tower of Big Ben
The rosy red cheeks on the little children.
I used to think it was "England swings like a pelican's wings." But that's neither here nor there.]